Saturday, May 12, 2012
Monday, May 7, 2012
What is the bumpy lumps on my Rlc Island Charm x Cat.Memoria Schultz flower?
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Register or Login now to remove this advertisement.This is a discussion on What is the bumpy lumps on my Rlc Island Charm x Cat.Memoria Schultz flower? within the New Growers: Ask the Senior Members forums, part of the New Growers category; Could anyone help. 1st picture with the weird bumps. 2nd picture is how it should ...By ischel1 in forum Cattleyas, Vandas, Dendrobiums IN BLOOM Replies: 8 Last Post: 01-11-2012, 11:12 AM By Thai0485 in forum Cattleyas, Vandas, Dendrobiums IN BLOOM Replies: 15 Last Post: 10-26-2011, 07:36 AM By jeffrey6115 in forum Cattleyas, Vandas, Dendrobiums IN BLOOM Replies: 1 Last Post: 10-12-2010, 01:16 AM By Cattmad in forum Cattleyas, Vandas, Dendrobiums IN BLOOM Replies: 4 Last Post: 03-28-2009, 07:39 PM By Cattmad in forum Cattleyas, Vandas, Dendrobiums IN BLOOM Replies: 7 Last Post: 03-10-2009, 07:58 AM You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsOrchid Forum Rules
Got a Vanda as a free gift--can I even grow it in PA?
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Register or Login now to remove this advertisement.This is a discussion on Got a Vanda as a free gift--can I even grow it in PA? within the New Growers: Ask the Senior Members forums, part of the New Growers category; I received an orchid shipment today in the mail, and it included a small bare ...Real NameJennMy Grow AreaSunroomFavorite Orchid(s)Whatever's in bloom today!Join DateApr 2012Gender
LocationPennsylvaniaPosts10
Got a Vanda as a free gift--can I even grow it in PA? I received an orchid shipment today in the mail, and it included a small bare root Vanda as a free gift. Everything I've researched about these says you need to mount them or hang them, then soak the roots every day. They also need bright light. I live in PA, my orchids are all indoors, and I have no means of mounting this properly without soaking the carpet beneath it when I water it.When I was thinking about the conditions this orchid likes, it occurred to me that it might be happy in these "water balls" I purchased. The balls soak up water, then slowly release it as the plant needs it. I'm thinking this might work for the Vanda because the roots could get to the air in between the balls, but the roots would have access to moisture in a continuous high-humidity environment.
Light is another issue altogether, but I'd just like someone's take on whether you think this "water ball" idea would even work. I don't want to kill the little guy within the first 48 hours! So this is what it looks like right now, on the windowsill where it would be grown, in a vase with water balls. I'd love to hear your thoughts!
I don't see why it shouldn't work, though I've never used the water balls before. But I see that you have a very healthy looking, spiking dendrobium next to it. Where I live, dendrobes and vanda thrive under the same conditions. Vandas are tough and not likely to die in the next 48 hours. Any way that young vanda plant looks extremely healthy to me. Have you considered using bark for the growing medium?
Orchids are very eloquent.They tell their master by their appearance , how they are treated.Real NameJennMy Grow AreaSunroomFavorite Orchid(s)Whatever's in bloom today!Join DateApr 2012Gender
H.G. Reichenbach
LocationPennsylvaniaPosts10 Thanks! I was actually under the impression that bark was undesirable for Vandas. Are people successfully growing them in bark? If so, I'll give it a try.My Grow AreaPorch/Patio.Favorite Orchid(s)VandaJoin DateApr 2012Gender
LocationLos Angeles, CAPosts15 nice free gift! did they tell you the hybrid or species name? i live in california where it is very dry, and have kept a vanda relative alive for a long time in large grade orchid bark. i mist the aerial roots regularly as well as a good soaking once to twice a week depending on temperatures. it lives outside in warm months, and comes inside in cool months. i have tried mounting in the past, but everything dessicates eventually. i have never used (or even heard) of these water balls. vanda roots do like to dry out some between waterings, so if those balls are really wet all the time, it might eventually cause a problem with root-rot. if they are just damp, you might be just fine. i have seen a trend in europe with vandas where people grow them in glass vases, with no media at all. you fill the vase with water for 20 minutes or so, then dump it out. but you have to do it every day i think for optimum care. i have recently been buying small vandas and potting them up in different methods to see what does best for my dry weather. keep us posted on how they do, i'd love to see if these water balls do well.
Looks good to me too. Happy vanda growing!cheers,
BD
Hi Jenn! I must say that considering the circumstances coeruleo grows his Vandaceous orchid under he is giving you some good information and advice. I would only add that you should keep a eye out and see if this plant starts putting out new roots and eventually leaves. Coeruleo's advice about allowing for some drying of the roots is right on, so I would check the roots from time to time to make sure they are not constantly wet. Good luck with these 'balls' and I hope they work out well. Look forward to hearing about your cultural results in the future. ALReal NameLeaf MiteMy Grow AreaWindowsillFavorite Orchid(s)Catts, Angs, fragrant orchidsJoin DateSep 2010LocationOhioPosts90
I use plastic vanda baskets and lava rock and set the baskets on plastic square plates. No mess, the vandas are happy, and I don't need to water daily.Real NameLeaf MiteMy Grow AreaWindowsillFavorite Orchid(s)Catts, Angs, fragrant orchidsJoin DateSep 2010LocationOhioPosts90
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That is a strap-leaf Vanda and they will bloom even grown indoors. I keep mine in a south-facing window during winter and put them out for the summer.By Naoki in forum **NOT IN BLOOM** All Genera Replies: 5 Last Post: 10-16-2011, 12:24 AM By dkknyte in forum Cattleyas, Vandas, Dendrobiums IN BLOOM Replies: 6 Last Post: 07-13-2011, 04:38 AM By Grandma M in forum OrchidTalk Members Grow Area - Photos Replies: 17 Last Post: 12-11-2010, 08:44 AM By Tmai in forum Cattleyas, Vandas, Dendrobiums IN BLOOM Replies: 12 Last Post: 12-27-2006, 07:41 PM By Brutal_Dreamer in forum The Jungle Replies: 3 Last Post: 04-10-2006, 07:09 AM You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsOrchid Forum Rules
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What are these on my Cattleya leaf?
This is a discussion on What are these on my Cattleya leaf? within the New Growers: Ask the Senior Members forums, part of the New Growers category; Anyone help. We have had a fair bit of rain. This is in an orchid ...
Sunday, May 6, 2012
Anthurium Plant Care
Maybe you obtained an attractive anthurium plant for a present or perhaps you acquired one as a memento of your Hawaiian holiday and now you're thinking about: " Exactly how do i keep this spectacular, hawaiian plant alive?" Fortunately for you, if you can adhere to quick and easy directions, you will have no trouble keeping your new anthurium plant alive for a long time into the future.
Watering Your Anthurium
The number one thing that you have to do is water your anthurium plant correctly and the good news is that you don't have to be as meticulous as a hawaii dentist to do this right. Anthuriums are incredibly sturdy plants, but like just about all plants they need to be watered regularly. You need to water them every 1 to 3 days, dependant upon the level of humidity and temperature, but you must be careful to not over-water them. Be sure that the container that you have placed them in drains nicely. If their roots are allowed to sit in standing water they are going to encounter root rot.
You ought to keep your anthurium plant indoors and out of direct sunlight, which can burn their blossoms and foliage. So long as the temperature is cozy for you, your anthurium will be fine. They like temperature ranges between seventy and 90 degrees, much like most human beings do.
Managing Pests and Diseases
If you keep your anthurium plant indoors, the great thing is you are not likely to run into any difficulties with unwanted pests, including scales, thrips and aphids. However, if you do come across these kinds of pests it is possible to deal with most of them by simply misting the foliage of your anthurium with water and wiping them using a soft wash cloth. If this isn't enough, you can utilize an insecticidal soap to keep these kinds of unwanted pests under control. Fortunately, this treatment is inexpensive. You don't have to be one of the top hedge fund managers in the world to afford it.
In outdoor facilities, a soil borne, microbial blight can easily decimate entire swaths of anthurium crops. But again, you are in luck, simply because by keeping your plant inside your own home it can escape this lethal risk. The leading disorder, your anthurium will encounter, is often a nasty fungus infection that can gobble up your anthurium plant. But, as long as you do not over-water your anthurium plant and you ensure it's potted in a potting soil that drains well this should not be a problem. However, should you encounter this particular scourge, you may keep it in check using any of a variety of fungicides. Fertilizing an Anthurium
Your anthurium doesn't need very much in the way of nutrition. Over fertilizing is a substantially greater threat as compared to under fertilizing it. A gentle, quarter strength solution of 3:1:2 proportion fertilizer every three to six calendar months is more than adequate to keep your anthurium plant happy and healthy.
As you can see, keeping your anthurium plant living is a simple process. It's simple enough that you might even find them growing in the garden of a house you find in the vacation rentals oahu site. Just remember to water it consistently and be sure that its roots are never ever subjected to standing water and your anthurium will live a long time.
BTW: If you plan on ordering anthurium flowers don't make these anthurium ordering mistakes.
Kinds Of Anthuriums Developed By The University Of Hawaii, Article Three
This is the third post in my series of reports on anthurium species made by the University of Hawaii.
The UH posseses an agriculture department that was one of the leaders in developing fresh anthurium species in the last couple of decades. This program has been at the forefront of developing cultivars that are: a lot more resistant to illness, higher yielding, a lot more colorful and able to last longer after being harvested. With this sequence of reports, I am going to showcase the fruits of their work.
The Tropic Sunrise is a large orange obake flower which was created in 1981 by breeding an Anuenue with a Soga Orange. It yields a large blossom which is orange in the middle and green at the sides. This particular bloom many grow up to 1 foot long. It features a yellowish nose which becomes white as it ages.
The coloration and size of the Tropic Sunrise happen to be its very best attributes. It produces its blooms on strong stems that may be nearly thirty inches long. Its flowers can last up to 27 days in a flower vase and this plant produces around half a dozen flowers each year. Testing shows that it's a robust plant with a small susceptibility to anthracnose.
The White Lady is an additional amnicola based crossbreed. It generates tiny white tulip shaped blooms which have a tendency to be just a little longer compared to other tulip shaped species. It was created by crossing four distinct varieties, so it has quite a mixed heritage. It has tiny green leaves that are the same shape as elongated spades. And it makes an outstanding cut flower or potted plant.
As a cut flower, White Lady, has a vase life of twenty-five days. As its flowers age they are able to acquire a pinkish hue, so they look wonderful upon potted plants. It's a wonderful plant for growers and hobbyists because it's extremely resistant to both blight and anthracnose. It makes about half a dozen blossoms annually. The spadix on these kinds of flowers may grow to six inches long and their stems grow up to twenty two inches. The spadix starts out yellow-colored and shifts to green as the blossoms age.
In case you would want to find out more regarding anthurium plants, please check out my anthurium internet site.
A Quick Summary On Anthurium Propagation
There are three methods to propagate an anthurium plant: you can take cuttings; it is possible to raise them from seeds; or you'll be able to tissue culture them. Cuttings are straightforward for anyone to do. Seeds are a little more challenging to accomplish, and tissue culture is usually reserved for scientists in labs or really advanced anthurium cultivators.
Cuttings are by far the simplest method to propagate your anthurium plant. The very best part regarding taking cuttings is that the plants you create will look precisely the same as the parent plant. First, you need to wait until your plant is big enough to enable a cutting to be taken. Generally you'll need to observe four or five nodes, or bunches of roots and leaves, before taking a cutting. Once your plant is large enough, chop it in half, so that every section possesses at least two nodes. Keep the bottom of your plant in its initial pot and it'll generate new growth. After that position the top cutting in a brand new pot, water it regularly and it will keep growing, too.
Seeds are an additional method to propagate your plant. Nonetheless it is a much more challenging method and takes a lot more patience. The stigma and stamen of these flowers are active at different times, so should you desire to develop seeds you'll need to store pollen within the freezer or have two blossoms at different phases of development. So the first thing you have to do is collect pollen. Make use of a paint brush to scrape pollen off the stamen and into a vial. Hold this vial inside the freezer until you notice that the stigmas are ready to be pollinated. When you have a flower with open stigmas brush a little pollen over it. After that you will have to wait for approximately a year for seeds to be generated.
Tissue culture is nearly entirely carried out inside the walls of a lab, except for truly high end hobbyists and growers. It's best left to business oriented growers mainly because it's very expensive and is typically used when one wishes to create thousands of genetically indistinguishable plants.
Tissue culture begins with the picking of the most incredible plant accessible. This plant is delivered to a laboratory where a tiny piece is trimmed off and sanitized. This specimen is placed in a sterile growing media in which it is subjected to a variety of different plant hormones. The initial hormone triggers the specimen to rapidly divide into hundreds of thousands of undifferentiated plant cells called a callus. This callus is divided into many pieces, which are then exposed to hormones that trigger each piece to grow into a brand new plant.
Anthurium Cultivars Created By The University Of Hawaii, Part 1
The University of Hawaii has an agriculture program that's been one of the front runners in producing brand new anthurium flowers during the last handful of decades. This program has been at the forefront of producing types which are: a lot more resistant to illness, higher yielding, much more colorful and able to be preserved longer after being harvested. Within this line of articles, I will cover the results of their hard work.
The Waimea is a red anthurium that was developed to fill an important need. Red anthuriums are incredibly popular blooms, but the foremost type of red anthurium, the Ozaki, was stricken by a microbial blight. The Waimea was produced in reply to this. It is a blight resistant variety that provides a lot of vivid red flowers.
The Waimea was produced back in 1987 by crossing Paradise Pink with a Marian Seefurth hybrid. The result was a quick maturing plant that made half a dozen blooms a year on average. The Waimea anthurium generates mid-sized, heart shaped blooms with a red spathe and a spadix that shifts from orange-red to red-purple. The blooms that it produces possess a vase life of roughly 28 days.
The Centennial is a white anthurium that was given its name for the 100 year anniversary of higher education within the Hawaiian Islands. The Centennial features a lot of symbolic meaning for the University of Hawaii. It generates a white colored bloom with green-colored veins. White and green are the colors of the university. The veins combine with each other at the base of the blossom and this represents the numerous diverse ethnicities which have come together at the university.
A lot of labor went into the creation of the Centennial. It is a hybrid that was produced from four different varieties of anthurium: A. andraeanum, A. lindenianum, A. amnicola and A. antioquiense. It makes a white tulip shaped bloom with mild obake traits. It possesses a yellow-green spadix that turns white. It makes dark green leaves and lots of offshoots. It is fantastic as a cut flower and as a potted plant.
Tips On How To Grow Anthuriums Outdoors
To begin, not everybody may grow anthuriums outside. In most areas of the world, due to local climate conditions, anthuriums can only be raised indoors. However if you're one of the lucky folks to reside in a place where the temperature does not decline under sixty degrees, there's a great possibility that you will be able to grow anthurium plants outside the house.
First, you'll want to validate that the location in which you are living offers suitable weather conditions. The temperature must stay between sixty degrees and ninety degrees. These plants may possibly live for a brief time away from this range, however in general they'll be injured if temperatures exceed this range. Wind is another factor. If you inhabit an region which is windy, the wind may perhaps hurt your plants. If the foliage on other vegetation with broad leaves inside your region are good, this indicates that the wind should not be a concern.
Second, you'll will need a spot which has bright indirect sunshine. These plants are unable to handle direct sunlight, but they are unable to live in the dark, either. The best location is in a sunlit region beneath a tree that blocks out a small piece of the sunshine.
Third, you'll require a garden soil that drains well. These kinds of plants do well in just about any kind of soil which has a good quantity of organic matter, however the necessary characteristic of any growing medium is that it has to drain well. If it doesn't, these kinds of plants will ultimately die from fungus or root rot.
When you've discovered or produced a location in your garden to suit these conditions, all you have to do is take your anthuriums out of their containers and plant them. If you're growing them beneath a tree, a great way to organize them is within a circle or semi-circle close to the trunk, with about a foot in between every plant. Lastly, make sure that they receive water regularly and they really should develop nicely and create quite a few attractive blooms.
How You Can Hold The Lethal Anthurium Blight At Bay
How You Can Hold The Lethal Anthurium Blight At Bay
A number of, but not all anthurium flowers are vunerable to a illness known as Xanthomonas blight. The blight is fatal. It doesn't take any prisoners. When an anthurium plant is contaminated it'll at some point perish, if you don't manage to remove afflicted leaves or flowers before the illness has progressed. Typically, andreanum are susceptible to this disease, whilst andrecola, which are andreanum amnicola hybrids are resistant to it. So if you are growing andrecola you most likely do not need to worry about blight, but if you are growing andreanum, you may well want to keep reading. Correct anthurium care is vital to keep this threatening nuisance at bay. Blight is distributed by proximity and water. Water can transport Xanthomonas from an afflicted plant to an uninfected plant.
Obviously in the event you keep the plants close together, there is a higher possibility of infection than if you keep them far apart. So if you are raising these plants within your garden you want them spaced as far apart as feasible. But if you are growing a significant quantity of them, you might not have a option but to keep them nearer together.
Whenever raising these plants in close proximity you can find a number of things you can do to decrease the transmission of blight. The very first is modifying how they're watered. Watering with drip irrigation will decrease the amount of water that gets on the leaves. This may reduce the spread of blight from an infected leaf to an uninfected one. Next, promptly get rid of any plants that demonstrate indicators of disease. Be cautious not to let it touch other plants as it is carried away. Finally be cautious when strolling among your plants, specifically if they're moist. It is possible to easily spread blight when they are damp.
Finally, appropriate sanitation is essential. Be sure that there is no standing water where you grow your anthurium. Sanitize all pots and equipment prior to use. Rubbing alcohol could be utilized as a sanitizing agent. Get rid of any dead leaves. And be sure you quarantine any new plants for a while to make sure that they are uninfected.
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Saturday, May 5, 2012
Exactly How Anthurium Cultivators Raise Anthurium Plants
Exactly How Anthurium Cultivators Raise Anthurium PlantsIn Hawaii, cultivating anthurium flowers is a significant industry. Anthuriums are grown on more than two hundred private facilities. A number of these facilities have been in existence since the 1950s, which had been the decade that farmers first started growing anthuriums commercially. Keep reading and I will illustrate the anthurium farming techniques that these farms utilize to cultivate large quantities of anthurium flowers.
The very first step in growing these kinds of blooms commercially is constructing a shade house. The goal of the shade house is to provide shade to the plants that will be raised in it. The reason why shade is important to raising anthuriums is that these plants would are likely to get burned by the sun's rays if they were to be raised in direct sunlight. To construct a shade building, the parcel on which it is going to be built will have to be cleared and graded using a bulldozer. Soon after the property is flattened off, galvanized pipes are arranged in place. These pipes are employed as posts to hold up the cables and shade material that are employed to build the shade structure.
Once the shade house is completed, volcanic cinder or other growing material is distributed on the ground of the shade house utilizing tractors. The cinder normally comes from volcanic cinder cones and is brought to the farm in large dump trucks. Normally a layer of cinder about 2 feet thick is placed on the floor of the shade house. As soon as the cinder is in position, anthuriums are obtained. They can originate from top cuttings of more mature plants in other areas of the farm or they may be the result of vegetative reproduction. They are then planted in the shade building.
Usually, Hawaii's regular rain showers provide sufficient moisture for these plants. But, whenever rain fall is inadequate the anthurium crops might be watered by means of sprinklers.
Filed under: anthuriumsWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview.
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Mounting a Phal..
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4Likes This is a discussion on Mounting a Phal.. within the New Growers: Ask the Senior Members forums, part of the New Growers category; Hello all, I am a newbie at raising orchids.Only started in December 2011. I made ... Mounting a Phal.. Orchids!! One is One too many, One more is never enough.!!!
Kenny Chesney
That looks like you did it properly. I'm sure you're aware that it will need water often. Good luck.
That looks good. The only thing I might have done a little differently would be to put some sphagnum between the plant and the mount to hold the leaves angled out away from the mount a little bit.
Thanks for the reply,Jeff
I intend on misting it daily .
I understand that those roots will die,but new different type roots should grow.
There is a lot to learn with orchids,yet it is all fun and educational.
Denny
Orchids!! One is One too many, One more is never enough.!!!Real NameJennevie ShihMy Grow AreaGreenhouseFavorite Orchid(s)Phalaenopsis, Vanda, CattleyaJoin DateMar 2011LocationManila, PhilippinesPosts171
Kenny Chesney
That looks very good! Well done!
Orchids are very eloquent.They tell their master by their appearance , how they are treated.
H.G. Reichenbach
I've had the best luck with mounted species phals. This one looks pretty good. In my watering conditions, I would probably need a bit more moss for the roots or the orchid would dry out too quickly.
cheers,
BD
Love it! That 's going to look so good when it spikes again for you. Congratulations on the plant and on branching out so boldly.
Yes Jenn,you may be right,about using more moss. This is my first attempt at mounting any type orchid.
Denny
Orchids!! One is One too many, One more is never enough.!!!
Kenny Chesney
Orchids!! One is One too many, One more is never enough.!!!By Bill in NYC in forum General Orchid Culture Replies: 3 Last Post: 03-26-2012, 06:57 AM By Zozzl in forum General Orchid Culture Replies: 7 Last Post: 08-19-2011, 12:03 AM By hank3443 in forum Phalaenopsis ('moth orchid') Information Replies: 8 Last Post: 12-12-2009, 09:33 AM By cheffysteffy in forum General Orchid Culture Replies: 6 Last Post: 05-03-2007, 09:29 PM By Nanci in forum New Growers: Ask the Senior Members Replies: 7 Last Post: 04-29-2006, 07:00 PM You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsOrchid Forum Rules
Kenny Chesney
Cattleya tipped over...
3Likes This is a discussion on Cattleya tipped over... within the New Growers: Ask the Senior Members forums, part of the New Growers category; I'm so sad and upset, My Cattleya tiiped over and damaged a leaf and two ...Real NamejasonMy Grow AreaPorch/Patio.Join DateNov 2008Locationsonoma county, caPosts1,055 If it makes you feel any better, the wind decided that it must be time for me to repot my in bud purpurata yesterday. I've never seen it bloom. The buds are tiny still and went undamaged...hope they don't abort! There would be no harm done leaving the flowers on, but personally, I'd go ahead and clip them. The plant is using its energy to sustain damaged blooms.
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I wouldn't worry to much about the orchid. Cut the blooms if you like - but as pointed out - orchids are pretty tough and this plant looks pretty healthy to me. I knock orchids over or drop them on a regular basis. I cringe and die a little each time, but, with the exception of a strap leaf slipper orchid I knocked over with the water hose and then backed up and smashed with my foot (crushed the plastic pot and damaged the leaves horribly), all of them seem to pull through. haha..Cheers,
BD
Like Bruce said, you can cut them off if you want to or leave them on the plant. It will be fine either way. I've never seen an orchid get any kind of infection from a cut so I don't treat cuts with anything. Whenever I have a tall blooming orchid in a plastic pot or very small clay pot, I temporarily place the pot inside a larger clay or decorative ceramic pot. That gives it a larger and heavier base which makes falling over less likely.
Polyploid orchids - is this a 3n orchid ?
This is a discussion on Polyploid orchids - is this a 3n orchid ? within the New Growers: Ask the Senior Members forums, part of the New Growers category; anyone know about Polyploid ? I crossed my Rhynchovanda colmarie Merlot, but the pods turn ... Polyploid orchids - is this a 3n orchid ?
Polyploid orchids - is this a 3n orchid ? anyone know about Polyploid ? I crossed my Rhynchovanda colmarie Merlot, but the pods turn brown and fall down? My orchid is tetraploid ? How i can recognize 3n orchids ? Help me please....
... TALK SLOWLY ... THINK QUICKLY ...
In addition to the VERY interesting thread of 2009 this is some additional information.If the cross from which Rhynchovanda colmarie Merlot was selected was between a 2n x 4n this plant will be a triploid. These are most of the times sterile. Although nature is quite flexible, and we are lucky that orchids make such huge amounts of gametes, sometimes these gametes are unreduced which mean that they are ready to mate with with another unreduced gamete. This is just a matter of luck and a well developed embryo rescue system, otherwise these low fertile seed pods will turn brown and take the few fertile embryos down with it. So try to set seedpods on many plants and find somebody that can sow your pods which need to be sowed very early.
Good luck with it,
Maurice
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General light requirements for Cattleyas
10Likes This is a discussion on General light requirements for Cattleyas within the New Growers: Ask the Senior Members forums, part of the New Growers category; I comfortable with the lighting I am supplying my Phal 's - east facing window. ...What do do on spent flowers of this Epidendrum
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5Likes This is a discussion on What do do on spent flowers of this Epidendrum within the New Growers: Ask the Senior Members forums, part of the New Growers category; The current book i'm reading states that " It is not necessary to remove the ... What do do on spent flowers of this Epidendrum The current book i'm reading states that " It is not necessary to remove the flowered tip of exhanusted flower spikes as these frequently produce secondary flowerings spurs rather than shoots which grow from the medium or lower of these stems" - (Expanding your orchind collection, J.N.Rentoul )So I'm confused once the flowers fade and drop off I don't cut the stalk but where will the flowers come from againg? The apex?? Anyone here can explain ?
I care about my orchids more than my partner so i've been told
When the bloom is "Spent" cut it off just above a node anywhere along the stem. Another flowering stem or a keiki will start there.
That person is a success who has lived well,.......
who never lacked appreciation of earth's beauty or failed to express it;Bessie Anderson Stanley.
What Angela describes is exactly what happened to mine. I have a second blooming now.
cheers,
BD
Orchids are very eloquent.They tell their master by their appearance , how they are treated.
H.G. Reichenbach
Nodes, keiki, and flower on Epi. stem Can't boast about the photography, but I hope this gives you some idea.
That person is a success who has lived well,.......
who never lacked appreciation of earth's beauty or failed to express it;Bessie Anderson Stanley.
The papery sheath that wraps around the spike (shown in your picture) begins at a node, but I'm not sure you actually need to cut the spike. I leave mine alone until something turns brown and dries out, which is usually just the topmost section where the blooms were attached.
Can you please show me where a node would be on these Epi as they are not prominent as Phals perhaps include a picture of your current second bloom Epi - CheersBy Brutal_Dreamer in forum Orchids of Other Genera IN BLOOM Replies: 6 Last Post: 04-14-2012, 09:52 PM By Brutal_Dreamer in forum Orchids of Other Genera IN BLOOM Replies: 11 Last Post: 04-18-2011, 10:18 AM Replies: 27 Last Post: 06-17-2008, 06:47 PM By Ron-NY in forum Cattleyas, Vandas, Dendrobiums IN BLOOM Replies: 10 Last Post: 02-16-2008, 07:23 PM By Tahaleiwai in forum New Growers: Ask the Senior Members Replies: 11 Last Post: 11-15-2007, 02:33 PM You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsOrchid Forum RulesCan't boast about the photography, but I hope this gives you some idea.Thanks Angela!
cheers,
BD
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